New York Pt 3

Last part of my recent journey through New York.

Beginning with a stroll in the rain through Central Park, just up from East 63rd Street. The colours were wonderful. There’s no enhancement of this photo.

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We made our way across to the west side of the park at around 72nd to see the Strawberry Fields memorial to John Lennon, murdered outside his apartment block nearby. Inevitably – despite the rain – there was a bloke with an acoustic guitar singing “Strawberry Fields” and exhorting everyone to sing along. Give him credit for being a trouper in any weather.

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We then walked up through the park, mostly along the east side, to the Guggenheim museum. The rain was relentless, as it was most of the day. But the views were still fantastic, if a little misty. It was hard to avoid the odd blob of rain on the lens, as with this one.

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We queued for half an hour in the rain to get into the Guggenheim, but it was worth it. Never mind the amazing art, it just looks brilliant.

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We then took the subway down to East Village to see St Mark’s Place, or should I say, the apartments which formed the front cover of Led Zeppelin’s “Physical Graffiti”! It’s fair to say that this wasn’t top of Kath’s visit list, especially in the rain; but we found a good cafe nearby and had an enjoyable lunch before venturing out in the rain again for that picture.

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We ended up, after a brief shopping expedition, at Grand Central Station. It is very grand.

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Last day was Thursday 29 November. Our flight wasn’t until 6pm, so we had a good chunk of the day to look around a bit more. We were staying on Madison and E63rd. Just looking down the big avenues is awe-inspiring.

This is Madison Avenue.

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And this is 6th Avenue.

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We spent a couple of hours in the Museum of Modern Art, with its range of modern exhibitions and an unbelievable collection of Impressionists, Picasso and many other great 20th painters. There was a little spot in one of the modern pieces that was very dear to my heart. A celebration of punk and new wave music.

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One of Picasso’s great pictures – Les Demoiselles d’Avignon.

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A last wander round some of the sights.

St Patrick’s Cathedral.

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Rockefeller Centre.

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The Chrysler, in its habitat. Lexington Avenue.

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And finally, the oddly thin tower that’s gone up in Park Avenue.

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An awesome city. I need an excuse to go back soon! I have a plan…

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Four concerts in a week!

Last week I had the unusual experience – at least outside Latitude – of going to four concerts in six days. Quite varied and all good in their different ways.

First up was The Staves at the Roundhouse. This was the biggest of the London concerts that I have seen so far. The place was sold out. The band are really going places. They are a different band now. We still get the beautiful harmonies, but the sound is fuller, rockier, geared up for the live experience and bigger venues. I have to say they get better every time I see them. This time they had a violinist in tow, who really added to atmospherics of the sound, and a trombonist to add further nuances.

Not surprisingly, the main feature was songs from the latest album, “If I Was”, but we had lovely versions of “Winter Trees” and “The Eagle Song” (which works so well live) too. And a speeded up, rocky version of “Mexico” which kind of worked. Worth a try, but I felt the wistfulness of the original was lost a bit in the beat. The highlight was the combination of “No You, No Me, No More” and “Let Me Down”, which was sparkling in its intensity and featured some astonishing vocal pyrotechnics. A few effects were added towards the end of “Let Me Down”, which gave you the sense that they might be about to launch into “Bohemian Rhapsody” at any moment!

“Steady” was a melodious opener, “Blood I Bled” its elegant self, with a hint of prog, and “Horizons” was at a new level. The main set ended with “Damn it All” where part two of the song allowed the band really to rock out. And “Teeth White” in the encore was truly upbeat, American and probably a pointer to the future. It sent everyone home happy.

A seriously good show.

The next day I was back in Camden, at a bar/venue called the Forge. A nice spot with decent beer on tap. We were there to see an Oklahoma folk singer called Samantha Crain. I heard her for the first time on BBC 6 Music earlier this year. The songs was a lovely track called “Kathleen”, from her recent album “Under Branch & Thorn & Tree”. I’d recommend it, along with her previous album, “Kid Face”. These are songs about struggle, about people trying to make their way. And lost love, of course. Perhaps the most gripping song is “Elk City”, a story of a woman who means to escape said city with her lover, falls pregnant and stays. And never leaves, although she dreams of it all the time. Her daughter grows up, does well at college and does leave Elk City. The woman is proud of her, but also  bitter that she never managed it herself. Samantha tells a good story when introducing her songs and she says that this story is based on a conversation she had with a woman in a bar. The woman sat next to her and just told her life story, unprompted. Some of us may well have made our excuses pretty quickly, but Samantha Crain listened, wrote it down later, and now it’s a song. It’s fair to say it’s one that Bruce Springsteen might have written, and I guess that is part of her appeal to me.

She was accompanied by another guitarist (also acoustic, but playing most of the runs) and a drummer. It was a good sound. Quite simple but refined, solid playing. Honed by many a live show, I’m sure. Music from the heart of America.

The next venture was at the Bulls Head pub in Barnes, an attractive bit of South West London, nestling along the Thames. I cycle past it all the time. Four of us went and had a rather good meal first in the pub restaurant. That might account for the fact that half way through Alan Price’s first set, I felt rather tired and looking around at the audience, most of whom were even older than me, de-energised. This was despite the fact that the musicianship was excellent and so many of the songs familiar pop favourites. Alan Price, of course, was in The Animals and went on to have a successful solo career. I’m no stranger to nostalgia shows, but this time I just wanted to feel some youthful energy somewhere. No criticism of Alan Price and his band, who were all highly talented musicians with some pretty impressive CVs. And in the second half, which was less about the old pop favourites and more about some hard-edged R&B, before a finale which included “House of the Rising Sun” I revived. So, a quality show, with some amusing, deadpan storytelling from Alan. He plays at the Bulls Head once a month if you fancy seeing it for yourself.

And finally, the day after the tragic, atrocious events in Paris, I was at the Barbican for a sell-out show headlined by young jazz superstar Kamasi Washington. He’s known, amongst other things, for his sax playing and arrangements with Kendrick Lamar on his epic album of this year, “To Pimp a Butterfly”. Talking of epic, Kamasi Washington’s 2015 album is called “The Epic”, and no wonder. It’s about three hours long and just awesome in its scope. When I first heard it, I thought how can I ever listen to all of it? It felt like every track had everything but the kitchen sink on it. But as I listened before the concert and then afterwards, songs began to reveal their depths to me, the individual performances started to make their mark. It’s an extraordinary piece of work and the live performance reflected that. But Kamasi allowed all of his band members to thrive. Not just playing the traditional jazz solos, but each taking the lead on a particular song – driving it along.

This was one of those shows where you think, these guys are playing at a different level to most people. Brilliant musicianship, songs that took you everywhere on the jazz spectrum, and a tremendous sense of togetherness. Spectacular, but not in a showy way – just in the enormity of it all. Kamasi was humble, deeply indebted to his fellow players, all of whom seemed to be close friends. He even had his father, Rickey, up there, playing flute on a few pieces. What a wonderful thing to do, that.

The show was compered by the great Gilles Peterson, and the opening band Go Go Penguin were excellent too. They played some lovely atmospheric pieces, and for the last, “Veils” teamed up with a dance troupe, choreographed by Lynne Page. New Jazz/ New Dance! Loved it. The best in fusion.

So the whole thing was an uplifting spectacle. Couldn’t stop those thoughts about Paris, but it was a reminder of the beauty and power of music. Which is why, of course, the terrorists are so frightened of it that they targeted people at the Bataclan simply enjoying the hard rocking of Eagles of Death Metal. But they won’t overcome that beauty and power – and love. It is so much bigger than they can ever be.

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New York Pt 2

So after Sunday’s trauma (first world variety) when I just couldn’t get the photos to load, it all went smoothly as possible tonight, when I gave it another go. As far as I can tell I did nothing different, but you have to accept “user error” is usually involved in computer glitches.

This part of the visit mostly covers views of the financial district and surrounding areas. With views from the Brooklyn shoreline. It starts with a few from mid town, from an earlier day’s walking. And it starts with that remarkably thin Flatiron building. Someone told me Spider Man climbed up it!

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Empire State.

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The 9/11 Memorial. Quite simple and incredibly powerful, with the names of all those who died. To those whose names are captured in this photo, I pay my utmost respect and offer my deepest regrets to them and their families and friends.

The new buildings are elegant and defiant. New York will not be defeated.

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This is so sad and beautiful. Again, my best wishes to those affected.

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Seaport is pretty much the oldest part of New York. Or should I say, New Amsterdam.

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Into the heart of the City, the justice building. I was reading recently that a lot of people made a lot of money taking a very long time to build this in the 19th century!

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Walking over Brooklyn Bridge. Astounding views.

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What can you say about this, really? Utterly iconic.

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On the Brooklyn shoreline. I love just saying that.

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As the sun goes down…

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Night falls – back on the bridge.

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Sportsthoughts (141) – France and England at Wembley, 17 Nov 2015

This isn’t really a Sportsthoughts – the event was so much more than that. But it was one of those times when football, infuriating though it can be at times, brought people together. To unite against the terrorists, who seem to seek a world where there is no culture, no enjoyment, no togetherness, no love. It’s inexplicable to most of us, but deadly in its intent. Tonight showed that we will always rise above that.

My love goes out to the people of Paris, a city I got to know when I lived there from July 1989 ( I arrived on Bastille day, the 2ooth anniversary of the revolution) to March 1991. I was working for BP at first, but when the office moved to Brussels, I stayed in Paris, and Kath and I had a wonderful six months of leisure in one of the world’s greatest cities. After London (and potentially New York) it’s the place I’d most like to live in.

And so, when it was announced that the England v France game would be going ahead, despite the atrocities of 13 November, I knew I had to go.

The game wasn’t bad. England played well. France gave it 100%, but maybe weren’t in top form, for obvious reasons. England won 2-0, with goals from new star, Delle Alli of Spurs and the trusty Wayne Rooney. Not sure it’s a game to read too much into, but encouraging for England.

But the most important time was the national anthems and the minute’s silence, impeccably observed. Without precedent, the British national anthem (which England calls its own on these occasions) was sung first so that the Marseillaise could take centre stage. And how we all sang. Maybe a little incoherently in the middle, as the French on the screens went beyond most of our competences, but with a rousing finale. A true moment of unity. We and the French don’t always see eye to eye, but tonight we were together. Totally. Long may it last.

The walk up to the stadium tonight was magnificent. Wembley lit up for France. Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite. If only those values could inform the whole world…

A few pics. (iPhone, so easily loadable – no tantrums tonight!)

The arch like never before.

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The words that say it all.

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Bobby Moore’s statue never looked better.

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During the Marseillaise.

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Er, I’ve changed my mind…

You know what? I’ve calmed down after my battle with the photo uploads at the weekend. And I thought, how am I not going to have a top ten of 2015, or say something about England v France at Wembley tonight? Or remain silent about the four concerts I went to last week: Staves, Samantha Crain, Alan Price (really), Kamasi Washington.

So thanks all who commented so kindly over the last few days. And keep on reading!

John

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Taking a break from WordPress

Dear All,

I’ve reached a point where these blogs are becoming a bit of an effort. At the same time the system isn’t allowing me to load photos as I would wish. I’ve been battling to load New York Pt 2 and thinking, what’s the point?

I’ll still be tweeting about music and sport at @Jasthoughts and if you’d like to hook up on Facebook, just send me a friend invite. My email is john.sills@hotmail.co.uk.

Best wishes,

John

Posted in Random stuff | 16 Comments

New York Part 1

At the end of October I went to New York with my wife and my girls for five days. Second time I’ve been – the first being 1986. It was brilliant. I love the city: its architecture, its vibrancy, the food, the museums, the lot. One of those cities where I visit and say to myself, I could live here. We were very lucky to have the use of an apartment on the Upper East Side, which saved us a lot of money and gave us a great base to explore and enjoy the city.

Of course I took loads of photos. I’ll share a few of them with you over three parts.

So let’s go!

We were a couple of avenues from Central Park, so spent a bit of time there. It was usually cloudy or raining!

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We walked from the west side of the park down Broadway to where we needed to get off off the beaten track and head to the northern end of the High Line.

Trump Tower. Ostentatious. Surely Americans won’t vote for him as President?

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Heading down Broadway.

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Times Square.

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A recent addition to New York’s tourist trail is the High Line: a disused elevated rail track converted into a pathway, along the West Side of Manhattan, near the Hudson River. It’s great. Takes about 40 minutes and takes you from around to 34th street to 10th, in the Meatpacking district, merging into Greenwich Village.

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The end of the line in the Meatpacking District. Reminded me of Smithfields in London. With lots of cafes and an excellent market.

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Heading down Bleecker Street. Bob Dylan territory! Halloween effigies hanging out the windows.

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Through to Little Italy.

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And in Chinatown, the people congregate on a Sunday afternoon to play board games and cards.

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Central Park, up around 103rd Street. I’d been up to the Museum of the History of New York. Well worth a visit.

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Then caught subway to West 4th street and found myself in Washington Square.

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Bleecker Street again, near Jones Street, where Bob Dylan was photographed in the snow with his girlfriend Suzy Rotolo, for the cover of “The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan”.

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Ended up at the Whitney Museum of American art. A  brilliant place, up there with MOMA and the Guggenheim. And a new building and location, right at the end of the high line. One of my highlights of the week.

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I discovered the black artist Archibald Motley, whose art was on show. A revelation. So vivid, a powerful expression of his culture.

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You can go outside the building and get some great views too.

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That’s it for now. Part Two in a few days.

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U2 at the O2 Arena, 30 October 2015

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On Friday, still a bit jet-lagged, after arriving back from New York at nine that morning, I went to see U2 at the O2 arena, aka the Dome. I’d had tickets for the Tuesday, but gave them away after I realised I’d be in New York. Fortunately a colleague at work had a couple of spare tickets on the Friday evening, right up in the Gods; and so I got to see the band after all.

I was keen to see them as I had a feeling that this might be something of a valedictory tour. But I have to say that there was no sense of that at all at the O2 that night. This was a band absolutely at the top of its game. I’ve seen them a few times in the past and I would say this was the best. It might be because it was indoors rather than at Wembley stadium, but the sound, the passion, the quality was absolutely all there.

The first thing about the show was that it really brought the latest album, “Songs of Innocence”, to life. I reviewed that album in my “Have You Heard?” series last year. I liked it, but it didn’t feel like anything new. I read about how it was a return to the band’s roots – lyrically, at least. But I didn’t completely get it. Live, it really worked. The show generally was simply presented. No lasers, no interviews with celebrities or politicians. Just a very high quality set of screens which added to the intimacy of the show inasmuch as you can have intimacy in a large venue. The first seven songs included four from “Songs of Innocence” – “The Miracle (Of Joey Ramone)”, “Iris (Hold me Close)”, “Cedarwood Road” and “Song for Someone”. Two more of the songs were from really early days: “The Electric Co” and the awesome “I Will Follow”. This was U2 exploring their roots: personal and musical. I loved it. There was a vibrant “Vertigo” thrown into the mix too.

One of the things the band did to engage the whole audience was to wander along an extended stage with a circle at the end, so everyone got a close take on them, and not just those in the posh seats near the front. Whether those in the posh seats appreciated this I don’t know, but I certainly did!

The rest of the show was a procession of U2 classics – there are just so many! We had “Sunday Bloody Sunday”, “Until the End of the World”, “Even Better than the Real Thing”, “Mysterious Ways”, “Desire” and “All I Want Is You” in midstream. We had a lovely version of “Every Breaking Wave” off “Songs of Innocence” with just Bono singing and Edge on piano, in that circle.

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And the last five of the main show were the sort of thing only a band like U2 can do: “Bullet the Blue Sky”, “Zooropa” (which bizarrely I don’t really remember: Setlist FM tells me it was there – maybe it was a snippet, unless I dozed off with the jetlag and beer combination!), “Where the Streets Have No Name”, “Pride” and “With or Without You”. Awesome, as good as it gets. Played, sung brilliantly. Rock music at its very, very best.

And then the encore! An epic “City of Blinding Lights”, “Beautiful Day” rescued from the thrall of ITV football, Bono indulging himself with a poignant take on Paul Simon’s “Mother and Child Reunion”, and to end, an inspiring “One”. It couldn’t get much better.

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This whole show was U2 showing the love: for the audience, for their own musical beginnings, and the music that has inspired them. I was so pleased to be there, sharing the feeling.

So I think I was wrong about the valedictory sense beforehand. This is a band that still have a lot to give. Still one of the very best.

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Sportsthoughts (140) – New Zealand win the World Cup!

Well, what a game that was! New Zealand 34 Australia 17. A fitting end to what has been an excellent World Cup, notwithstanding England’s flop. The best team by a mile ran out winners – the first ever to win back-to-back World Cups. The first time the All Blacks have won it outside New Zealand. They can now lay claim to being the best team ever.

I missed the semi finals as I was in New York and, believe it or not, had better things to do than try to catch the games in an Irish bar somewhere. Maybe if England had been playing…

But the quarter finals had all been superb, in different ways. The All Blacks crushed France with the most awesome display of all round rugby brilliance that the tournament witnessed. Australia and Scotland slugged it out until the last, with a controversial Aussie penalty which dashed Scotland’s chances. I felt sorry for them for a micro-second. Argentina showed how much they have improved as a result of playing in the Southern Hemisphere championship, and gave Ireland a trouncing. The Irish were the unluckiest team with injuries, losing so many of their leading players in the brutal game against France. And South Africa ground their physical way to a close victory against Wales, who were also battling against injuries.

From what I read and saw on highlights, New Zealand showed they could tough it out in a grim struggle with South Africa in the semis, while Argentina lost it mentally against the Aussies, who won quite easily. And so we had what was probably the dream final for anyone setting aside their own national allegiances.

The game followed a classic pattern. First quarter, two sides sounding each other out. The All Blacks on the front foot with Ma’a Nonu blasting through on a few occasions; but Aussies resolute in defence. Second quarter, New Zealand stepped up a gear and scored a brilliant try just before half time, with Milner-Skudder finishing off some outstanding interplay between four or five of the team, including centre Conrad Smith’s reverse pass which sent the Aussie defence off kilter and allowed the decisive passes which led to the try. The speed, the intensity, the intelligence: this is what England must work on. They had it in 2003 – they need to get it back! Third quarter, crucial. Nonu scored an outstanding individual try – power, footwork, pace. Released by an amazing Sonny Bill Williams offload. Sonny Bill replaced Conrad Smith at half time. The man who created the first try with a bit of magic and had been his usual solid self. But no sentiment in this All Black team – they wanted to kill off Australia. So many options!

But then Ben Smith upended Aussie winger Drew Mitchell at the breakdown and was sin-binned. In the ten minutes that followed, Australia scored two tries: one pure forward power, finished by Pocock, the second a nicely crafted chance with Kuridrani powering through a gap in the All Blacks’ defence, created by a deft kick from scrum half Will Genia and a perfectly timed pass from Drew Mitchell. Behind a lot of the Aussie attacking was bad boy Kurtley Beale, who came on after 26 minutes for Matt Giteau, who got concussed in a tackle. Losing Giteau so early on was a massive blow for Australia; but Beale minimised the damage with an excellent, adventurous display.

So it looked like the traditional Aussie comeback was on. From being 21-3 down, they got back to 21-17. But as we went into the fourth quarter, Dan Carter steadied the ship. First an audacious drop goal, then a penalty from close to his own half way line. Breathing space. Australia tired, New Zealand re-energised. And towards the end a dangerous run from Beale led to a fumble by Mitchell, Ben Smith pouncing, surging through and kicking ahead incisively for sub Beauden Barrett to sprint ahead of a knackered Aussie defence to collect the ball and touch down to complete the victory.

In the end, a score of 34 -17 looks like a comprehensive victory. But it doesn’t tell the story of stout Australian resistance and a serious wobble by the All Blacks while Ben Smith was in the bin. But they were resilient when they needed to be, and in Dan Carter had the man to show coolness under pressure with that drop goal. He did the same in the semi final against South Africa. The world’s best fly half half of the last decade finally getting the chance to grace the greatest stage – a World Cup final. Injury robbed him of the chance in 2007. It wasn’t just Kiwis who were hoping he wouldn’t get crocked in the early games. It was right that he should finish his international career where he belonged – at the very top. Man of the match in what, I guess, is the best final since rugby World Cups began, in 1997. I say I guess, trying to be neutral for a moment, as it can only be 2003 for we English, when we beat the Aussies on their home turf!

A lot of top New Zealand players are now retiring from internationals: their amazing captain, Richie McCaw, Dan Carter (off to earn a fortune at Racing Paris for three years), the awesome Ma’a Nonu and his central partner, Conrad Smith (61 games together!), stalwart forward Kevin Mealamu. Will it make much difference? I don’t suppose so – not for long, anyway. The replacements will already be ready to slot in, I’m sure. New Zealand don’t leave much to chance.

It has been a great World Cup. Many are saying the best. The quality of the games has been high. England and Wales have been good hosts, with most games sold out. Shame about the England performance itself; but let’s just say they were unlucky to be in that group of death with Australia and Wales, and might have grown if they’d got into the quarter finals from an easier group.

There’s no doubt that there are a lot of very talented young English players. We see that at Quins, and all the top sides are in a similar position. The challenge is to get them to play with the intensity, the pace, speed of thought – and confidence – that they are capable of when they pull on an England shirt. And that needs management which brings out that potential. Clive Woodward managed it in the years up to 2003; maybe the authorities should bring him back into the fold, at least to advise them on what to do next. Director of Rugby?

Won’t happen, of course!

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Have you heard? – (68) “Every Open Eye” by Chvrches

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I’d really been looking forward to the new Chvrches albums. Readers of this blog will know I loved the first album, “The Bones of What You Believe” – it was was my top album of 2013. Quite a long time ago. Since then Chvrches have been building up a following the traditional way – gigging and then gigging some more. Especially in the USA. A business strategy has clearly been in place here. And why not? If you make music you want it to be heard and you want to make a living out of it.

Chvrches’ attraction in that first album was its combination of eighties electro sounds and melodies allied with a modern indie feel and, of course, the voice of Lauren Mayberry, which floated delicately but effortlessly over the whole thing. And as I listened more to the whole album it grew and grew on me, different songs became favourites. It was a joy to listen to. Always uplifting.

So, what of the new album, “Every Open Eye”? It came out at the end of September but I got it a couple of weeks ago. I’ve listened all the way through three or four times, no more. So my first impressions are more of the same, maybe a bit poppier than before, and because it’s not that different in style and not better, not as exciting as it might have been. It starts with a bang as all good pop albums do – and until you look at the band you’d call them pop rather than indie now – with the three best tracks, on early listens, the first three. “Never Ending Circles” rumbles on like one of the great tracks on the first album, “Lies”. “Leave a Trace” is just a great pop song, and has a video that got some people a bit worked up. They seemed to object that Lauren, indie goddess, but also a forthright defender of women against the Twitter trolls, had agreed to be filmed in a short black dress and, unusually for Chvrches, on her own. What a ridiculous fuss! It’s pop music. Image matters. Elvis was about image. The Beatles were. So were The Clash. Everyone. Image always has mattered, always will. Chvrches, like any band, will make the best use of what they have. And Lauren Mayberry is a potential star beyond indie confines.

Here’s that video.

And then the third track, “Keep You on my Side”, which is the one that has jumped up and hit me in the face on the first listen. It’s just a great banging eighties-style disco anthem with a massively rousing chorus. I’m surprised it hasn’t been a single yet.

The rest is good but, apart from maybe “Empty Threat”, which could fill the dancefloor, I’ve yet to get the full flavour of the album. Sometimes these things take time and Chvrches are a band whose music I will give lots of time to.

If you get the deluxe version you get, amongst other things, “Get Away”, which came out in 2014. Another fine pop song.

I suppose the dilemma now for Chvrches is do they stick to the electro indie or go absolutely into mainstream pop? Will they ever quite appeal to the teens as opposed to the older students? No idea! But I think they are a band that is thinking about how they build a mainstream following. Gigging massively in America and writing great pop melodies with an eighties touches isn’t a bad plan. But Lauren will be key to the crossover, like it or not. Just think Debbie Harry and Blondie in the seventies. Who remembers the blokes?

Not making any judgements. Just pop reality.

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