Latitude Festival 13-15 July – the detail !

Posted on July 19, 2012 by John S

You may have read my first thoughts blog on Latitude, which summed up how I felt about the festival. Very good indeed was the answer. This blog goes into a bit more detail about the bands and singers I saw, day by day. So it’s quite long – just warning those of you having a quick look at lunchtime!

I saw some fantastic bands I’d never heard of before. And I wallowed in nostalgia from time to time. And enjoyed the headliners on the main stages.  There was so much choice.  Some of the people I would have liked to have seen, but didn’t because of clashes with others, included: Lana del Ray, Elbow, White Lies, Alt-J,  Laura Marling, Bat for Lashes,  Simple Minds.

But maybe who I did see is more interesting…

Day 1 – Friday 13th

We got to the venue at about 11am, lugged our kit from the car park to the camping area and found someone to pitch our tents.  Thankfully it wasn’t raining, so it wasn’t too miserable an experience. Wellies on: 15-16 hours a day for the next three days! Jon and I parted company with the three seventeen year olds and went in search of great music.

There are four main venues for music.  The main stage, the Obelisk Arena, is at the top of the hill on which most of Latitude is staged. For the crowd it is open air. The second stage is the Word Arena, under a stripy four-topped tent. It’s a big venue and some of the artists there may well have been playing before their biggest ever audiences.  It allowed the stage lights to come into play earlier than on the open air stages. The Lake Stage was just down the slope from the Word Arena.  It backed onto the lake that cuts through the site and adds to the serenity of the place. The ground slopes upwards away from the stage, which allows people to chill out on the grass while watching the bands. Would have been wonderful in the sunshine! The Lake Stage also became one of the great venues for the sound systems after 11pm, when the bands had finished. Finally, there was the I-Arena, tucked away in the woods on the other side of the lake from the main area. It was under a tent (which leaked in the rain!) and held two or three hundred people, as well as allowing quite a few people outside to see in. This, as you will see, became my venue of choice.

First stop, in the Word Arena – having bought the first Tuborg of the day – was Lloyd Cole, eighties smoothie with a philosophical bent and a slick guitar. “Rattlesnakes” was his signature album. Now with cloth cap and acoustic guitar, with his son next to him playing the intricate guitar parts.  It was nice but unremarkable until he launched into some of those old favourites. Starting with his classic, “Perfect Skin”, which I wasn’t expecting to hear on the acoustic guitar. Taking in “Are You Ready To Be Heartbroken” and “Brand New Friend” as well as a dreamy version of the Velvet Underground’s “Pale Blue Eyes”, acknowledging his roots.  A satisfying start to proceedings.

After Lloyd Cole we grabbed some lunch and sat on the slope opposite the Lake Stage, to catch We Have Band. I’d not come across them before, but was impressed. How to describe them?  Funky electro? Shades of Talking Heads, Foals, Human league, CSS. Real energy. Definitely a band I’ll be checking out.

Then back to the Word Arena for The War On Drugs. That is a great name for a band! I guess you’d classify it as Americana or grunge.  Hints of Pearl Jam.  Some big, spacey  guitar solos on the Les Paul. The way that the songs built slowly to a crescendo reminded me a bit of early Waterboys. I liked them a lot.

We caught the end of Revere and the beginning of Polica on the Lake Stage en route to the Obelisk for Amadou and Mariam.  Revere had a lively pop sound with bells and whistles; Polica were eerie and just a little bit slight for the open air.  The singer’s voice didn’t really carry.  They would have been better off in the I-Arena. Amadou and Mariam were excellent.  Their alternatively lilting and punching African guitar rhythms were irresistible and towards the end there were hundreds, thousands of people dancing in a damp field.

Some of those dancers!

Next was Dexy’s at the Word. Obviously we were looking for a nostalgic celebration, with “Geno” and other old favourites.  We knew that with Kevin Rowland, we might not get anything of what we were hoping for. We were right.  There was an entertaining rendition of “Come Eileen”; otherwise it was what I imagine to be new music.  It was OK, but the whole thing was too showbiz for me: lots of duetting with other members of the band, talking pieces and generally pretty boring workouts.  Slick, good musicianship, yes.  Otherwise a disappointment. I was wishing I’d gone to see Howler at the I-Arena instead.

We did then go over to the I-Arena, to see Kurt Vile. Once with The War On Drugs. One of the stars of the Americana scene. At first it looked like he was a bit out of it – lots of guitar tuning and mumblings.  But then he and the band really hit their stride with a magnificent, grungy version of Bruce Springsteen’s “Downbound Train”.  This was my first spine-tingling moment of Latitude. And things stayed at a high level from there.  Kurt proved my original supposition to be completely wrong by playing some lovely, intricate acoustic guitar on a couple of solo songs. This was edgy, powerful stuff. The wow! factor most definitely present.

Metronomy at the Obelisk couldn’t have been more different to Kurt Vile. Eighties electro, smart clothes, short hair, pristine, clinical. Sharp, modern. Great pop.  I liked it but didn’t love it.  I hankered after the dangerous rock’n’roll edge of Kurt Vile.  Jon did love it and ranked it as one of the best performances of the weekend.  I can see why.  But when it comes to the crunch, I’m with the rock’n’roll, I guess.

Finally, we hooked up with our children, and split for the last shows of the night.  Kieran and I stayed at the Obelisk for Bon Iver.  Jon and Connie and Annie headed to the Word Arena for White Lies. Hard choices! I would really have liked to see White Lies, but Bon Iver had to take priority. Ever since Laura Barton, in the Guardian, alerted me to “For Emma, Forever Ago”, I’ve loved Justin Vernon’s delicate, wistful sound.  The second, eponymous, album is rockier, with the addition of more band members, but still has the minor key sad/uplifting sound. Kieran is a big fan of Ben Howard (see Sunday) and I suggested he might have been influenced by Bon Iver.  Kieran checked him out and quickly fell for the two key Bon Iver tunes: ‘Skinny Love” from the first album and “Calgary” from the second. Both were brilliant on the night, lifting the audience upwards. It was a wonderful show, with a dazzling stage backdrop.  But I did wonder if it was the right thing for the last act of the night.  Lovely though the songs are, they are slow and reveal their depths in time. I doubt that if you’d  encountered the music for the first time, much of the music would grab you. “Calgary” might, and the way it was played near the end of the set had shades of Coldplay. Does stadium rock beckon? Would be extraordinary if you think of the origins.

In the end, I thought, this is Latitude. You don’t always do the obvious and have someone rocking out at the end.  It’s all about the music. And I suspect Bon Iver are going to get bigger and bigger.

So that was the end of the bands. Jon and I got back for a beer, the kids went off to party, and he retired to the tent.  I went In The Woods to find out if Dub Boy was any good, in the I-Arena.  On my way I caught a bit of a House/ dubstep sound system with a DJ called Goldirocks. And yeah, it was rocking – in the rain. Just as Bon Iver finished, it started to drizzle.  The rain didn’t stop until about 2pm on  Saturday. But in the early hours it didn’t seem to have any effect on the revelling. I – with my umbrella – was massively impressed by our nation’s young people. Nothing with stop them having a party!

The Dub Boy show was a mix of reggae, dancehall, dubstep, and no doubt all sorts of dance I haven’t heard of.  But it was a brilliant melange of sound and rhythm. Dub Boy himself was a white guy with a black T-shirt, essentially just playing his favourite sounds. No ostentation. But what sounds! Pumping bass and rhythm. The crowd were going wild.  I stood on the sidelines, drinking my Tuborg, tapping a wellie. But loving it as much as anyone there.  Around 1.30am Dub Boy gave way to a more extravagant bunch called The Heatwave. They handed out whistles and horns and pranced around the stage, toasting, rapping.  Great stuff too.  Similar music. I was flagging so left about 2am.  Gotta pace myself!

Day 2 – Saturday 14th

It rained all night – you could hear it rattling on the tent. All the main pathways had attained quagmire status by the time we ventured out to the Village for some breakfast at about 9am. We being me and Jon.  The kids got in rather later than us and not surprisingly used the whole of the morning for sleep.

Before we hit the music we looked in at the comedy arena where there was something on at 11am called the Infinite Monkey Cage, featuring the famous science expert Brian Cox, Robin Ince as well as pub landlord, Al Murray. I think they may have been talking about the Higgs Bosun, but will never know.  When we got there the tent was completely packed.  There was a screen outside, but you couldn’t hear the discussion. Amazing that so many people were there at eleven in the morning to hear this discussion.  Says something about Latitude and its variety.

Jon and I wandered into the Faraway Forest to kill a bit of time. This was hippie land and home of the Norwich and Norfolk Mediaeval Association.  All I can say is credit to all those involved.  There was a lovely, gentle vibe about the place. Not where I was going to stay, but total respect is due. An integral part of Latitude.

Our first band of the day was Splashh, at the I-Arena. I had them as one of my highlights in my earlier blog. They had the look, the style to be the next big New York indie band.  Except they are from London. I was surprised when I researched them at home later.  The guitar and bass sound was Strokes meets Sonic Youth and the singer had the intonations of Liam Gallagher. I really liked them.  I thought there was something fresh, orginal about them, even in a well-trodden field.  Will they be big? Should be, but depends who picks them up. A brilliant, exciting start to the day.

We stayed at the I-Arena for Sunless ’97. What the name is meant to mean I have no idea. They were a funny but rather good band.  Funny because the three members of the band frequently gathered round a table, hunched over, bobbing up and down to the rhythm, playing their keyboards and laptops.  Like the audience wasn’t there! The bassist and laptop man looked a bit like Peter Crouch (very tall England footballer, for those who don’t know). The main man on the music front leaped from instrument to instrument, a bit like the comedian Bill Bailey in one of his live shows. The lead singer, a woman, did her keyboard thing then stood up, twisted her body and sang beautifully, like Elizabeth from the Cocteau Twins. And the music? Fascinating. A cross between prog and electro.  All sorts of things going on. Great rhythms. Intriguing. I kept thinking of Gong (from the seventies) updated for the electro age.

Lianne le Havas was on at the Word Arena at 2.30. The place was full to the rafters.  She was genuinely chuffed.  She plays a jazzy, bluesy soul, with some subtle guitar.  When I first saw her on Jules Holland I was impressed. She got a great reception in the Word tent. But I got a bit bored.   Guess it was just that after Splashh and Sunless ’97, I had a real appetite for challenging, rocking music.  Lianne doesn’t do that. I’ll probably still download her album, as a soothing, late night thing.

We wandered back to the I-Arena, only to find that the tent was so packed we couldn’t get in.  For whom? Of Monsters And Men. Didn’t know them at all.  But legions of young people clearly did. They didn’t sound that amazing to me. Pleasant country rock, not unlike The Magic Numbers, from Ealing, who had a few hits not so long ago. But there was something going on with this band.

Then it got real. Wooden Shjips were next on stage. They played pounding hard rock riffs that had a really hypnotic effect. And then the guitarist and singer – a man with a very long beard – would launch into some very spaced out solos, full of echo and trembling.  It was like listening to Hawkwind at times. But there was something very powerful about the band. I found myself engrossed. Hooked.  One of the best bands I saw all weekend. Jon suggested to me that they were Norwegian.  Somehow that made sense. It was metal with a twist. Back home I researched the band and found they are from San Francisco! Oh well.

And, as a wonderful contrast, next on were the Staves, my favourite band of 2012.  The three sisters from Watford, singing the most beautiful folk-based harmonies. They did it again and got a fantastic reception from a packed-out tent. “Icarus”, “Mexico”, “The Motherlode”.  The accapella, ‘Wisely and Slow” was lovely, but kept short – they only had thirty minutes. Our kids made it to this show and really liked it too. Hope that is a good sign.  They deserve to be big.

Jessica

Back over the lake and up the hill after that to the obelisk, for Richard Hawley, ace guitarist and singer-songwriter, once of Pulp, lately a bit of a sixties Elvis impersonator. Or is it Scott Walker? It was drizzling, as it had been most of the afternoon. The songs were slick, but mostly off the new album, which has gone a bit rocky. I love his album “Coles Corner” which had that rich sixties feel. We didn’t hear any of that, as we decided to get back to the I-Arena for Django Django. They were outstanding and again the place was packed and absolutely rocking.  I was hearing a bit of funky Talking Heads again, and Foals, but mostly I was just bowled over by the insistent rhythms and the sheer power of the music.  There weren’t a lot of tunes.  It was all about the rhythm, the drum and the bass. Another highlight.

Note the matching T-shirts

We had a little break after Django Django, got something to eat and listened at a distance to Los Campesinos on the Lake Stage, with their catchy, jerky dance-pop. And then it was over to the Word Arena for one of the big moments – The Horrors.

Elbow were headlining on the main stage, but Jon and I – and the kids – all felt we needed to see the Horrors. They did not disappoint. They were truly magnificent.  The sound, the lighting, the presence… they all showed that the Horrors are now on that sublime level when they can dominate any stage, any crowd. They have made it to awesome. My favourite song is “Endless Blue”, which starts with some prog-ish noodling then launches into a pummeling riff. They did it proud live. But best of all was the finish: “Still Life” and then a completely awesome “Moving Further Away”, a fifteen minute epic, with lighting to match, that reminded you of Led Zep, or the Doors.

The top performance of Latitude, for me.

So that was the end of the bands for the night.  But for the next four hours Jon and I flitted between sound systems in the woods, sometimes together sometimes apart. Again there was a brilliant House-style system in the open air, while the I-Arena housed the reggae/dub/dance sound.  Before the “disco” started there, there was a gig by a rapper/toaster and band called  2Morrows Victory. It was pretty good and towards the end had an outstanding moment when it was almost like Madness. After that the DJs kicked in, including ShyFX, who is now a Radio 1 stalwart. To be honest, I was getting a little confused about who was doing the music… but what I did know was that it was very good.

Jon and I retired from the fray at 3am, but I can tell you, the place was still buzzing.

Day 3 – Sunday 15th

Felt a bit weary Sunday morning. Couldn’t stay in bed too long because the sun was shining and making the tent intolerably hot! Still needed the wellies to sludge through the mud though.

There was a bloke in a single tent next to us.  He mentioned that the hot ticket early Sunday was Lang Lang. Who he? World famous Chinese pianist, that’s who. From the classical world, about which I have little knowledge. He was appearing at noon at the Waterfront Stage, which jutted into the lake, near the main bridge, the Writers’ Bridge. I think the stage was used mainly for dance and drama during the weekend.  Anyway, we sauntered down to the stage and picked our spot on the wood side bank. Lang Lang entered the arena on a Viennese gondola – very stylish.  The whole performance fitted that bill – stylish.  Lang Lang played a selection of pieces by Chopin, Liszt and Schumann. I have to say I found them beautiful and relaxing, and at the same time admired the passion and animation with which Lang Lang played the piano. The whole event was just incredibly civilised.

Leaving on the gondola

After that I joined Jon and Connie at the Obelisk Arena – Jon had headed off earlier – to watch Rufus Wainwright. I liked his sense of humour as he introduced the songs, and admired his red jacket. The music was superbly played.  But I found his soaring voice a bit much for a lot of the country-based songs. His is a cabaret or jazz voice.  If Kurt Vile had been singing some of the other songs they would have been brilliant.

We stayed at the Obelisk for the Alabama Shakes. They’ve been getting some very positive reviews lately.  Southern blues/soul/rock. First couple of songs were great.  I loved the guitar sound, which reminded me of the Black Crowes, Lynyrd Skynyrd and the Faces.  But then the music slowed down and the singer did her Otis Redding impersonation. It didn’t quite work for me. She wasn’t Otis, her voice was too sharp. I thought they were best when they rocked, but they didn’t do much of that.  I got bored.

Then a bit of lunch – paella for the third day running. It was nice! I watched a bit of Gross Magic on the Lake Stage while I ate. Er, wasn’t great.  Music was OK. Punky, Libertines style.  Vocals so out of tune it hurt.  Actually that was in the style of Pete Doherty too… but this was worse.

By now I needed a fix of the I-Arena, where I knew all the bands would be interesting at the very least. I caught the last ten minutes of Zun Zun Egui, who were a mixture of African, punk and and avant garde jazz, all played at a very fast pace.  So fast that people were struggling to dance to it.  Intriguing though.

Then it got really good. First, Daughter, featuring Elena Tonra. She sang delicate vocals and played some lovely guitar.  She had another guitarist who really expanded the sound, giving the songs a spacey, other-wordly feel.  Sigur Ros came to mind.  And he even got the violin bow out, Jimmy Page style. But the extraordinary thing about this gig was that it was another that attracted the teenagers in large numbers.  And that made for a very positive and lively atmosphere.  Elena was clearly moved by it. I checked with our seventeen year olds and they hadn’t heard of Daughter. But clearly some of their generation had.

And if that was good, nothing had prepared me for the next band. We Are Augustines. I have seen the future of rock’n’roll and they are called… that’s how I felt after this gig. Those words were applied to Bruce Springsteen in 1975, and became a millstone. We Are Augustines may never reach Bruce’s heights, but live, they have a sound inspired by him –  and unbelievable energy. The singer, Billy McCarthy, so obviously loved what he was doing. It was pure passion. So infectious.  Some of the choruses, great chants, were straight out of the Springsteen book, but stripped down to the essence. It was amazing.  It was the greatest rock’n’roll moment of Latitude for me. A massive high.

I wasn’t in a great position for photos of Billy until he moved centre stage and then he was leaping around so manically that my digital camera just couldn’t cope. But I’ve got to have a photo, so this is the best I’ve got…

I stayed at the I-Arena for the next gig – King Charles – mainly because I wanted a good place for Other Lives, who would follow. King Charles was basically a pop version of Prince.  More pop, less funk.  But the way he wielded the guitar at times, I thought he was going to break into “Let’s Go Crazy” or “Purple Rain”. I could see him being pretty big if he got the right promotion.

Then oddly, the tent emptied and wasn’t fully re-filled for Other Lives. I thought we’d be battling for space for them. Some big tunes, in the mould of Fleet Foxes and other such bands. Alexis Petridis of the Guardian raving about them.  With good cause. Tent two-thirds full and time cut back to half an hour because others over-ran. It was all a bit gloomy.  The music is minor key anyway, but the uplifting element of that faded and we were left rather with the gloom.  Shame.  I think they are a really good band, but it just didn’t work for them at Latitude. No way it puts me off them.  Their two albums are great. Have a listen.

The festival reaching the climax, it was time to succumb to the main stage. First for Ben Howard, singer-songwriter and ace guitarist.  Much loved by our kids, who were right at the front. He was good.  Well-crafted songs and some impressive guitar, notwithstanding a broken string at one point. He could easily have headlined as he was so clearly the most popular artist with the youth.

But Paul Weller took that top spot.  Now I love the man and his music.  The Jam, the Style Council, loads of excellent solo albums.  The latter a bit samey over the years, but he is undoubtedly one of the greats.

Having said that, the early part of the show was a bit dull. But it did liven up.  First when he played songs like ‘Broken Stones” and ‘You Do Something To Me”. And then when he played a bit of the Jam. “In The City”, another early song I didn’t recognise, and then “A Town Called Malice”, ever danceable. And then, and then, for the encore, “The Eton Rifles”! What a great way to end the last show of Latitude.

That wasn’t the end of Latitude of course.  I wrote in my previous blog how I stayed for a couple of hours at the Lake Stage, enjoying the indie disco put on by Vinyl Vendettas. I won’t repeat the track listing here. but I will restate how it was a perfect end to the most wonderful three days of music and sheer enjoyment. It’s 1am, and a few hundred people are dancing in a field to indie and a few rock classics. It is a total celebration.  Elsewhere, especially on the other side of the lake, in the woods, there are sound systems having the same effect. No-one really wants the experience to end.

Celebration!

I retired at about 1.30, boringly thinking about needing to get up early so we could leave on time. Our kids, wherever they were, left it a bit later. We got up early and were out of the place by 9, before the next swathe of rain hit the place. But we all felt the same as we left. Tired, exhilarated, wishing the festival could go on longer, talking about next year. Already assembling the memories.

Three days of pure bliss. In a parallel world with no rules, no obligations. Just an exhortation to enjoy.

To feel the love…

And even the mud was OK.

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Latitude festival 13-15 July – first thoughts

Posted on July 17, 2012 by John S

I and my son Kieran, plus friend Jon and his daughter and niece all went up to Suffolk, near Southwold,  for the Latitude music and arts festival this weekend.  Yes it rained a bit, yes it was very muddy in places, but yes, most of all, it was a brilliant three days of musical discovery and celebration. And yes, a big party!

Me in the mud at the campsite

Just a taster tonight of some of the things I liked most about the festival.  For those of you with time and stamina, I’ll be writing about each day of the festival over the next few days.

The site with Word tent in background

Today, it’s ten things I loved about Latitude. In no particular order, though I’ve numbered them.

1. The Vibe. It’s my first festival so they may all be like this (or maybe not) , but I was just so impressed by the friendliness of everything. The positivity. The celebration.  The way so many different generations were present, all just doing their own thing, tolerant of each other, at one.  It was like being transported to another world, a world I think we’d all like to live in all of the time. Respect. 

2. The wonderful variety of experiences available.  There was so much enticing literature, poetry, drama, comedy and other creativity.  But above all, for me (and Jon), there was so   much good music that we didn’t have time for much else.  The past, the present and the future – all had to be imbibed.

3. The contrasts in music.  My favourite place was a place called the I-Arena, sponsored by the Independent newspaper.  It was in the woodland area, across the lake from the main action. But it was the place to see the bands who might be big in the future, if they aren’t already doing pretty well. On Saturday, I saw in succession a psychedelic/ hard rock band from San Francisco called Wooden Shjips (bizarrely I thought they were Norwegian – why?) and then my favourite band of this year, the Staves, the trio of sisters who sing the most beautiful harmonies. Both were brilliant. But so different.

4. So many new bands to discover.  One of the best was Splashh, who we saw at 12.20, Saturday lunch time. I seriously thought they were out of New York:  they had the look and style of the Strokes and the sound of that band, with a discordant hint of Sonic Youth and a touch, through the singer, of Liam Gallagher. A brilliant guitar sound. Will they be big?  Who knows, but they should be.

5. I have seen the future of rock’n’roll… that was the infamous quote about Bruce Springsteen in 1975 that almost sank him.  Well when I was watching We Are Augustines at the I-Arena on Sunday afternoon, I felt the same.  They have picked up the baton from Bruce and played such an energetic set that I was almost in tears about how good it was. They are back for Reading and Leeds and are doing a tour in Autumn.  If you like Bruce, or just love rock’n’roll, catch this band!

6. A lovely start to Sunday with an hour of classical piano from Lang Lang, a Chinese pianist, who I now know is a world superstar. He played on The Waterfront Stage which juts into the lake near the main bridge, the Writers’ Bridge. He came to the stage in style, on a Venetian-style gondola. He played a selection of Chopin, Liszt and Schumann. Not my speciality, but I found it entrancing.  The two banks of the lake and the bridge were packed with admirers.  Not just a rockfest, Latitude.

7. Dub Boy at the I-Arena, after hours, late Friday/ Saturday morning.  A firing set of reggae, dance, dubstep, or whatever else you choose to call it.  The tent packed to the rafters with revellers. Such a fantastic vibe.  I may have been the oldest person there – though there were probably a few more of my generation dotted around – but I can tell you, no-one was enjoying it more.  Just love that music and the pulsating bass lines, the pounding rhythms.

It was very wet outside…

8. Paul Weller hitting his stride at the end of his headlining set on the main stage, the Obelisk Arena, on Sunday night. Launching into the Jam: “In The City”, “Town Called Malice” and a magnificent encore of “the Eton Rifles”. For people of a certain age..

9. The truly magnificent set by the Horrors, closing the Saturday performances at the Word Arena. This was the moment when I realised just how good this band is. There was a harmony between the music and the presentation – the lights, the dry ice, the moves.  A real power and mystery.  I loved so many bands over the weekend, but it felt like the Horrors were on another level.

10. The Indie rock disco! After Paul Weller on Sunday, Jon, who had to drive the next day, said he was tired and need to retire to the tent. (Turns out he stopped off at the poetry tent on the way back and enjoyed a rousing set from John Cooper-Clarke).  I thought I’d head back to the woods for a last dose of dance and reggae, but stopped by the Lake Stage when I saw a few hundred people on the slope getting down to some great indie sounds.  As I got there, it was ‘If You Wanna”by the Vaccines.  That was followed by “Blitzkrieg Bop’ by the Ramones and then, unbelievably, the Osmonds’ “Crazy Horses”. I had to stay for a bit longer. The music was being laid down by a blond woman in a cape (I think) on the stage, with a few friends really rocking to the music.  The sound system was called Vinyl Vendettas. It was so infectious. The music lurched from “Town Called Malice” to “Paint It Black” by the Stones,  to “Debaser” by the Pixies, “Last Nite” by the Strokes, “Too Much Too Young” by the Specials, “Blue Monday” by New Order and even “Dancing In the Dark” by Bruce Springsteen! The whole thing was so uplifting. Hearing Bruce in this company really moved me. I stayed for a couple of hours, refilling my glass of lager from time to time. Never made it to the woods.

Such a great end to the festival.  For me it summed up the whole vibe.  Loads of people, all ages, just really enjoying, celebrating, dancing to great music.  In a field.  In the early hours. Sharing the love.

I’m missing it already!

If you are interested in more, watch out for my day by day account, coming next…

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Sportsthoughts (32) – Why I love the Tour de France

Posted on July 11, 2012 by John S

July is the the month when football goes to sleep, rugby too.  A very short breather. Friendlies start getting hyped midway through the month, by the TV machine. There’s the tennis and the cricket of course, and the British Open golf. But the sport that really keeps me going in this fallow month is the cycling, the Tour de France.  Here, nine days into the current Tour, are 10 (plus one) reasons why I love it so.

1. The cyclists on the Tour must be the toughest sportsmen going. A hundred or so miles a day, over 20 stages (and the prologue). 3497 km in total this year, 2186 miles. Sometimes along flat territory, but then other times up and over the most hideous mountain slopes.  When I’m battling up a quite steep slope in Ealing, or some other place nearby, I always think, the Tour guys wouldn’t even blink at this one.

2. They come through some horrible crashes.  This Tour has had a whole series of disruptive crashes which have put some riders, like Frank Schleck, out of the running for the yellow jersey. But unless they have broken bones, they get up, have the bike fixed, and get going again. Cycling through the pain. Stoics.

3. It’s such a fantastic advertisement for France.  the variety of scenery, the beautiful towns and villages. Visit this country now!

4. The enthusiasm of the fans.  Some of them are close to being a danger to the riders, but it is amazing to watch the riders fight their way up the mountain slopes, or through the time trials, egged on by those fans.

5. The sprint finishes. Extraordinary for a start that you don’t get crashes when the top guys surge for the line, centimetres from each other’s wheels. Last year the Mark Cavendish team, HTC, in their V formation, was a thing of wonder, as they led the race on the flat stages, placing Mark for that catapult finish.  He doesn’t have that support this year, riding with Sky, and possibly his focus is on the Olympics.  But he won the second stage, magnificently. There is a more even competition this year, more depending on the individuals themselves.  Smaller support teams, if any.  One reason, it is said, why there have been so many crashes. everyone is vying, but not leading.

6. The way that the peleton somehow catches and sucks in the breakaway groups on most stages. I find this remarkable, as I watch the highlights on ITV 4. You know the breakaway group will be caught.  They know, the peleton knows.  But why? And why break away if you know you’ll just be destroyed close to the end?  A little bit of glory, I guess. But why do teams allow one of their riders to break away, given that it does them no good? No idea.  But that moment when the mouth of the peleton opens and devours the breakaway riders is always a thing of awe.

7. The technology – the helmets on the time trials, the new chain wheel which is not quite circular, so that it maximises thrust from the pedal force… apparently. Everything, basically.  A nerd’s delight.

8.  The mystifying accumulation of points for the Green jersey and King of The Mountains – especially the latter. I think I’ve just about got the idea of the intermediate sprints, which garner points.  And the TV has started showing them a lot more.  But King of the Mountains truly is a mystery. To win the Tour you have to be brilliant in the mountains, and in the time trials. So how come the winner of the Tour, or maybe second or third, isn’t the winner of that fabulous polka dot jersey? Makes the title a misnomer. But then, if the King was just the Tour winner or runner up, why have the polka dot jersey? Hey, who cares, it’s a great thing to be… King of the Mountains. I’d like that.

9.  The respect shown as the likely winner becomes clear. At some point, usually after the Alpine or Pyrenean stages (depending on which comes last)  after the battles to break each other, the peleton acknowledges the winner.  There seems to be a massive respect from thereon in. An acknowledgement, I guess, of the shared effort and pain in reaching those final stages. Mutual respect. I love that sense of fellow feeling and respect. A truly honorable sport.

10. The way that new stars emerge, so quickly, at least to us non-experts, whose focus each year is really only on the Tour de France. This year it is the young Slovak rider, Peter Sagan, who has swept all before him on the flat stages and won three stages in his first ever Tour. That is an amazing achievement, especially as he doesn’t seem to have much of a team in support. And closely rivaling Sagan, the Team Sky rider, Chris Froome, who won a mountain stage, is helping Bradley conquer the big slopes, and came second in the time trial on Monday, edging out the legendary Fabian Cancellara, who takes yellow until the mountains kick in.

Crank it up to eleven!

11. And finally, the fact that our own Bradley Wiggins, the Mod, the Jam and Who fan, the lad, who crashed out with a collarbone  fracture last year, but who is being supported brilliantly by Team Sky, this year, is favourite to win.  It’s not certain – it only takes one bad day to set things back. But after the Monday time trial, he opened up a gap of almost two minutes on the feisty Aussie, last year’s winner, Cadel Evans. That will be hard to claw back.

That’s another amazing thing, really.  After thousands of miles cycling, it all comes down to a couple of minutes difference. The fine margins of top sport…

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The English Summer

Posted on July 10, 2012 by John S

Saturday, 7 July, 2.30pm. Mudeford,  on the Dorset Coast, near Christchurch. Height of Summer.

Lovely!

The walk down the beach to Highcliffe Castle was strangely enjoyable though.  A bracing wind and a fine sea mist.  The kids stayed indoors!

These beach huts are usually thronging with families and their picnics. Not today.

Got better on Sunday.

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Sportsthoughts (31) – Euro 2012: the denouement

Posted on July 4, 2012 by John S

There was an odd news story today. England have risen two places to fourth in the FIFA world rankings.  That’s England, knocked out in the quarter finals, outclassed in normal time, by Italy – now sixth. Suggests the rankings don’t rank the games that matter highly enough. Spain are first of course, Germany – beaten by Italy in the semi finals – second. Bizarrely, Brazil are eleventh!

Victorious Spain

So, in the end, the team that everyone in their heart of hearts knew was the best, won. But I, with many others, thought Germany might do it, with their strength, speed and ability to keep possession (unlike England). And that audacity. (See my Sportsthoughts 30). So I got that one wrong!  In the semi against Italy, they lost their audacity, their confidence, after the Azzurri hit them with two outstanding goals, both scored by Mario Balotelli.  Super Mario rather than stupid Mario. The first engineered by a wonderful piece of skill and cross by Cassano and finished with a perfectly timed header by Balotelli. The second a superb long ball – Route 1 – by Montolivo, which super Mario gathered, looking wildly offside (he wasn’t), before he absolutely wellied it into the top right corner of the German goal. Neuer had no chance. Immense!

Balotelli’s second strike

Show off – yellow card

Then Italy wove their web around the Germans and from time to time broke and struck at the heart of their defence. It could have been 3 or 4 nil. Germany never really sparked. They had chances and got one back with a penalty right at the end. But that verve, audacity, deserted them when it mattered. Were they cowed by that history of not beating Italy in tournament games, which dates back to the fifties?  Surely not, but something went wrong.  Maybe Schweinsteiger being only semi-fit contributed.

But well done Italy, 2-1 winners. And Andrea Pirlo became the darling of the tournament.  Forever breaking free of those who would shackle him, spraying his passes with unerring accuracy around the field, short and long. The Maestro. Until the Final.

The old master – Pirlo – escapes the young pretender – Ozil

The other semi went to plan (just), with Spain beating Portugal, after a 0-0 game, through penalties.  And Portugal had their chances to win. Ronaldo’s radar wasn’t quite functioning.  All his shots cleared the bar with some ease.  Is there no-one in that team who can say, you’ve blown three free kicks, let me have a go? Seems not. And then in penalties, he was left with the fifth penalty, the potential crowning glory. Unfortunately for Portugal they were already beaten by then, 4-2.  Ronnie stood there deflated, not used. Cock-up!

Ronnie’s missed out and where are his shorts?

The most ridiculous thing of all in this tournament though, was the idea, increasingly perpetrated in the media, that Spain were BORING. All that passing to players on your own team, that confidence in possession: BORING. Even Arsene Wenger chipped in, suggesting that Spain were now using possession to deny other teams attacks, as opposed to mounting their own. You have to respect Arsene’s analysis (though he might be a little bitter about Arsenal losing to Barcelona) but surely the issue is that most national teams are so scared of Spain, that they sit in deep defence, hoping to muster a break. So the onus is all on Spain to make the match exciting. Spain: so good they’re boring. Que?

Two masters – Xavi and Pirlo

Anyway, they dealt with that in the final.  They upped the pace a little, played the passes a little more forward, acute. Cut Italy to pieces. Two outstanding goals in the first half (just like Italy against Germany). The first an Iniesta/Fabregas creation with Silva placing a cute header into the top of the goal. Pure reaction on his part. The second an amazing sprint by full back Jordi Alba, a perfect ball into his path by Xavi, finished with precision. Perfect football. The game in the second half dropped in intensity. Italy couldn’t get back into it and used their three subs so early that when one of them, Motta, went down with a hamstring injury, they were reduced to ten. Two of Spain’s subs, Torres and then Mata, finished them off in the last minutes.  Lovely for Juan Mata. First appearance in the tournament. Goal. Something to treasure. And that’s how good Spain are: Juan Mata can hardly ever get on the pitch. Tell that to Chelsea!

The Chelsea boys – icing on the cake

Another odd thing.  Fernando Torres, who I think only started one game, who played fifteen minutes in the final, won the golden boot, traditionally awarded to top scorer. This time a whole raft of players scored three.  Players like Gomez of Germany, of whom much was expected, fell away. So Torres, coming on late, sneaking another goal and making the pass for Mata’s goal, got it on assists and minimal time spent on the pitch.  Another formula -based decision, like the FIFA world rankings. Another one that just doesn’t feel right. Better surely just to share the award – or give it to the player who played the most minutes, not the least.

Anyway, Spain 4 Italy 0 said it all.  This is a supreme team. with its infinitely flexible midfield and forwards. It’s not 4-6-0, it’s 4-3-3.  But different players move into the positions, around an axis of Xavi.  He may not have sparkled so much in this tournament, but he is still fundamental.  Behind him Xabi Alonso and Busquets sweep up everything, in front Fabregas, Silva and Iniesta buzz , probe and eventually strike. And in this tournament it was Iniesta, more than anyone, who provided the incision, the creativity.  Every match he got better, more influential, as the game progressed. A magician… and an incredibly hard worker. Every player in the Spanish team is grounded.  They put in their shift. Pressing when without the ball, making space with their runs when they have it. The complete team. Boring? Never.  A masterclass in football.

Iniesta – the best

So, after accusing them of being boring, the media flipped and asked, are they the best team in the world ever, having won two Euros and a World Cup in succession?  Most of us of a certain age recoil, and say, surely Brazil 1970 are still the best ever.  But how do you compare them, when the game has changed so much? Brazil were certainly the most exciting, but this Spanish team might well destroy them, as defence wasn’t their forte. Hey, whatever, let’s say they were the best two, and ignore those who look even further back and cite Brazil 58 or Hungary 53.

Let’s just say that it is a privilege to watch this Spanish team weave their patterns, and look forward to the next clash of cultures at the World Cup in Brazil, 2014. Euro 2012 has been a brilliant tournament. One of the best ever. Brazil 2014 is going to rock!

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My Top Ten – Funk

Posted on July 3, 2012 by John S

Four to the Floor ! The beat that makes it impossible not to move, or groove. Funk is everywhere. It powers the classic 70s disco sounds, it infiltrates rock, rap is built on samples from the funk. But sometimes a song just fits the bill as FUNK. My selection is far from definitive – I’m no expert on the infinite and obscure sounds that a true funkateer could guide you through. But each of the songs in my Ten has an irresistible drum and bass beat, and a guitar that either glides or punches over the beat. The vibe is usually celebratory. The sound of funk is the sound of enjoyment, dance, losing yourself in the music.

Let us proceed. Click on the titles to hear the songs. and you can continue reading as they are on a separate window.

10. The Message by Cymande

I know nothing about Cymande, other than I first heard this track on an RCA compilation called “Rare” in the eighties. There were a few in the series featuring what was called rare groove. Basically, the tracks were funk grooves that only the aficionados had ever heard of.  The great thing about these compilations was that people like me got to hear the tunes as well. The top British reggae band Aswad covered this song too, on their best selling album “Distant Thunder” in 1988.  In fact I may have heard it there first without realising its origins.

9. I Need It by Johnny Guitar Watson

This a lovely soulful funk thang that came out in 1976 when my musical choices were mostly rock and metal, with punk approaching.  But I heard this on the radio and loved it, and always have, since.  Maybe it’s the twang of Johnny’s voice and his guitar.  They work in unison. Or maybe it’s just the lilting funk groove. Whatever the reason this is a moment of pure funk for me.

8. Hook and Sling by Eddie Bo

Eddie Bo is/was a blues, soul, jazz and funk man from New Orleans who began recording in the mid-fifties.  This track dates from 1969 and I picked it up from another rare groove compilation, this time put together by the Streetsounds record label. A very fine label indeed. The compilation came out in 1988, and had a great picture of some feisty New York girls in their platform shoes on the front. I’m assuming it’s New York, it could be any city. ‘Hook and Sling” is a bouncy, elastic soul-funk thing, with a really catchy guitar motif.  It doesn’t really go anywhere – it just works out. It’s all in the beat.

7. That Lady, Pts. 1 & 2 by The Isley Brothers

The Isley Brothers were part of the Motown scene pretty much from the start. “This Old Heart Of Mine”, for example. But in the early seventies they played to a different groove.  Fluid beats with intricate rock guitars overlaid.  Still pure soul, but funky and rocking too. “That Lady” – here in its longer version – is a classic of the genre.

6. Family Affair by Sly and the Family Stone

This is soul-hippy-chilled out funk, with an edge, from 1971. Integral to the times, but apart from the mainstream too, with the mellow sound and the biting lyrics rubbing against each other. Sly and the Family Stone made some dance classics in the late sixties, like “Dance To The Music”. They were multi-racial (which was statement in late sixties America) and multi-talented. The album, “There’s A Riot Going On” represented a darker turn in their sound and “Family Affair” was the centrepiece. It made No1 in the US singles charts. You can still feel the subdued power in this song. And the funk.

5.  Fame, by David Bowie 

One of the key tracks on Bowie’s Philly soul album, “Young Americans” from 1974. An amazing turn of events after the sci-fi-glam-rock’n’roll of “Aladdin Sane” and “Diamond Dogs”. But that was Bowie in the seventies – always ahead of the game, ready with another musical twist. ‘Fame” was pared-down, hard-edged funk, a jarring note amongst the lusher sounds of the album.  John Lennon on supporting vocals. The essence.

4. Get Up (IFeel Like Being A) Sex Machine by James Brown

The Godfather of funk with his greatest song. Pure, unadulterated funk. Nothing else to say except… take it to the bridge!

3. Que Pasa/ Me No Pop I by Coati Mundi

And featuring Augustus Darnell, lead man from King Creole and the Coconuts, I’m sure of that. This is a great song, which I loved from the moment I first heard it.  It was on a compilation called “Mutant Disco”, from 1981. It starts with an easy Latin beat – the “Que Pasa” bit – before it morphs into a slice of vicious funk, with vicious lyrics to match.

When I came from the VD clinic, I thought our love was finished…

It’s cartoon stuff, really.  Funny, memorable too. And that slicing guitar on repeat. The definition of funk.

2. Love Will Bring Us Back Together  by Roy Ayers

Jazz-funk is the mellow, grown-up sibling of funk. With tendencies to the middle of the road, and blandness.  White socks in surburban discos, eighties style.  Not anything wrong with that, but deemed a little uncool by some. A lot of the tunes that were big in that early eighties period, when white kids went large on dance music, were from the seventies. Roy Ayers was a good example.  I first came across “Love Will Bring Us Back Together” on one of the CD compilations called “Mastercuts”. There was a jazz-funk series amongst others.  So many treasures, but this one stood out.  The appeal is so simple.  It’s an uplifting, jazzy-funky, upbeat rhythm. The Clavier going a bit crazy (in a mild jazzy way). You cannot fail to smile, or want to dance to this.  It is the shimmering sound of summer. Love it!

1. One Nation Under A Groove by Funkadelic

This is the funk call-to-arms. A total anthem. Part of the wacky seventies arm of funk – psychedelic, rock-infused, downright weird.  As personified by George Clinton and the raft of bands with which he was associated: Parliament, Funkadelic and others.  I caught up with some of the albums in the eighties and found whole pieces hard going, meandering, self-indulgent.  But with “One Nation”, Funkadelic hit the button. A taut drum and bass beat, some classic clipped guitar, some otherwordly sounds in the background, and, above all, that refrain:

One nation under a groove…

The Funk Nation.

Near Misses

So many. Prince and Stevie Wonder could fill a ten between them. The Rare Groove compilations revealed so many great songs. “Express Yourself” by Charles Wright and The Watts 103rd Rhythm Street Band, recently sampled by Labrinth. “Sock It To’Em Soul Brother” by Bill Moss. “Actions Speak Louder Than Words” by Chocolate Milk. The dark, rumbling jazz funk of ‘If You’ve Got You’ll Get It’ by the Headhunters. And then the twelve inch singles I picked up in the late eighties, maybe nineties. “The Joneses” by the Temptations (who wants to be like…), “Funky Like A Train” by The Equals, “Cross The Tracks” by Maceo and the Macks.  And well, what about Earth ,Wind and Fire, Kool and The Gang, the Average White Brothers with “Pick Up The Pieces”? The list is endless. My Top Ten is just the creme de la funky creme.

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Wembley Stadium on a cloudy June day

Posted on June 26, 2012 by John S

Yes, it was 23 June, the height of the English summer, and the grey clouds lay thick in the sky. It was windy, cool, not cold, from time to time a drizzle falling.  But Wembley and its arch looked magnificent. You might have read my piece from Saturday, “Temples of North West London”. That had a Wembley taster.  This goes further – there are so many intriguing angles and perspectives to take in. Hope you like the shots.

And this is my 100th blog!

A reminder of the stadium in full, from the road that leads to IKEA. Obscured a little by “Carey’s Scudder”. Whatever that is.

The arch in full.

The high point.

Steps.

Wraparound.

Reflections.

Torpedo.

The Leap.

More reflections.

Bobby Moore – see my Sportsthoughts (28) for a full tribute.

Curve.

The arch from the walkway to Wembley Stadium station.

The bridge over the railway takes its inspiration from the arch.

The whiteside (illuminated by the weak sun).

More shots of the arch, from the bridge.

Two arches.

The grey skies impart a monochrome feel to most of these photos, but for me that gives them a stark beauty. I love the angles and curves and reflections of this modern architecture. The Wembley arch is a triumph. You can see it from so many parts of London, gleaming white against the city skies. Close up it is endlessly fascinating.  I hope these photos convey something of that.

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Sportsthoughts (30) – the Euro quarter finals

Posted on June 26, 2012 by John S

And so to the stage when class really begins to tell. You can play for the draw and penalties, but really you have to want to win. Without that mindset, you begin with a handicap, and it’s not often that you can overcome it. The quarter finals we have just witnessed prove the point.

Let’s take them in turn, rather than lurch straightaway into angst about England. First up was Portugal against the Czech Republic. The Czechs got out of their group rather unexpectedly and clearly didn’t rate their own chances of taking on Portugal, Ronaldo and all, toe to toe.  So they parked the bus and hoped for a break… or penalties. It didn’t happen.  Portugal were relentless, kept their patience and eventually got the winner. Courtesy of a fine move with a resounding Ronaldo header at the end of it.  Highlight of the game was a sublime piece of skill from Ronaldo just before half time: a ball coming over his shoulder, taken on his chest, a swivel away from his marker, a jabbed shot. Hit the post. It wasn’t all Ronaldo though.  Portugal are solid in defence and have a strong midfield, with Moutinho to the fore.  Nani sparkles out wide. They will give Spain a tough game.

Ronnie’s happy.

Germany v Greece promised a walkover and it sort of worked out that way.  The manager, Joachim Low, was sufficiently confident to leave his entire first choice front three – Gomez, Muller, Podolski – on the bench. Blimey, that looked complacent, but it wasn’t. It was audacious – and he did it because he could. The replacements – Klose, Reus and Schurrle – did the business, Klose and Reus both scoring. As ever, the Germans played fluid, fast, penetrating football, powered by that amazing midfield trio of Khedira, Schweinsteiger and the silky Ozil. 4-2 the final score, but that flattered the Greeks.  They were wiped. Again, they were set up to contain, but they couldn’t. They broke well for their first goal. But there was never a doubt who was going to win this game.

The silky Ozil.

Spain v France was a disappointment.  In the end a fairly easy 2-0 win for the Spanish, but I expected more of France.  OK, so the loss to Sweden was a surprise, but France have a lot of attacking power.  They didn’t use it.  The team was set up to try to negate Spain. Debuchy, the excellent right back, was pushed up to right midfield, with another right back, Reveillere (the dreamer?) behind him.  All to counter Iniesta! Likewise, Malouda came in, supposedly to solidify the midfield, along with M’Vila. Result: Nasri, Ben Arfa, Menez – the exciting players –  left out. Nasri had been France’s best foward in the first game.  At the end of this one he was in a rage. France falling apart again. The belief just wasn’t there.  Spain drain the belief of most teams and now they are being accused of being boring. Because they hold on to the ball, probe, probe, until the openings appear.  No long balls to the big man.  The “false nine” is in vogue.  Messi at Barcelona, Cesc Fabregas sharing the duty with David Silva for Spain. They win with precision and stealth.  Teams sit back and defend deep, in fear.  It is the opposition who can make the games a trifle dull, not Spain.

The amazing Iniesta.

But who will dare take them on? I have an idea…

And then England v Italy. I thought we had a decent chance.  Italy hadn’t been that impressive in the group stage.  But how often do we say that about Italy?  They just seem to have it in their DNA to come good in the knock out stages. They were so much better than England last night, except for a little spell early on in the game.  England fought hard and defended well, but they lost the midfield battle half way through the game, with Andrea Pirlo magisterial. It was the old story: going foward we just couldn’t keep possession. The urge to make the killer pass every time, or take a man on when the pass would be better.  The need for speed. And just maybe, players that, this time around, just weren’t quite good enough.  Rooney was off the boil – maybe suffereing from missing the first two games.  Welbeck looked a little out of his depth.  Ashley Young was anxious, Milner hardworking but anonymous. Too much was therefore down to Parker and Gerrard. They did their best, but ran out of steam. Stevie was being treated for cramp after 77 minutes. Terry and Lescott were heroic in central defence. Glenn Johnson covered well. And Balotelli had one of his comical games, missing a hatful for the Italians.  They had around 30 shots to our 8; 64% of the possession. If we had won the penalties it would have been daylight robbery.

Pirlo, the maestro. Rooney, the pretender.

Aah, penalties.  The old story.  Quarter finals, defeat in the shoot out. But there wasn’t the same despair as usual. Not on the sofa with the can of San Miguel, anyway. We pretty much expected it… and deserved it.  Italy were so much better. But the feeling is less bitter than usual for another reason, too. So often there is a real sense of underachievement. South Africa 2010 was so much like that.  But this time, I think we all felt that England really had given their all, played to to the limits of their ability. They just weren’t good enough. But if a team has given its all, you stay with them.

The End

England were alright. Roll on the World Cup qualifiers! With Jack Wilshere back from injury, bossing that midfield, hopefully.

So that leaves two intriguing semi finals.  I’d expect Spain to inch past Portugal, just through sheer overall quality.  But Ronaldo could win it. Will Portugal dare to attack and try to exploit the possible weaknesses in Spain’s defence? Will they, will they? My guess is that they won’t, and they’ll hope for some Ronaldo magic to steal the game. Hope I’m wrong.

And Germany should beat Italy fairly easily, really. But those crafty Italians are capable of anything… maybe Balotelli will have one of his great games.  They depend a lot on Pirlo though, and I bet Khediara, or Schweinsteiger, or Podolski or Muller – or all of them – will be in his face, upsetting that easy rhythm, exploiting his aging legs. He won’t have it as easy as he did against England.

Yes, the Germany – Spain final looms. What a prospect that is. Because the Germans won’t lose their nerve, park the bus. They will go for it. Stay audacious.  Try to hit Spain where it hurts. Down the flanks, behind the centre backs. They’ll play with pace and power, and accuracy. And then we will see what the Spanish boys are really made of.

Alternatively… Portugal v Italy! Ronaldo v Balotelli. Battle of the egos. Hmmm, I don’t think so.

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Temples of North West London

Posted on June 25, 2012 by John S

On Saturday I got on my bike and cycled out to Dollis Hill in North West London.  Why oh why? Well, Albertina, who blogs as Greenford 365 on WordPress had posted a picture of a really interesting, almost Art Deco building on Twitter, and I thought it would make a change from going along the Thames,  to venture into the suburban recesses of North West London to see it for myself. I took the opportunity to ride along the Paddington branch of the Grand Union Canal for a bit, from Perivale to Acton Lane in Harlesden. I then threaded my way up to Gladstone Park in Dollis Hill. And let me tell you, there were some big hills.  This was quite a tough bike ride, by London standards. Having got to the top of the hill, bordering the park, I slid down to the Dollis Hill Synagogue of old, now a primary school, the subject of my journey. The building is protected by a fence and some trees – good for the privacy of the pupils, not so good for enjoying the architecture. But here are a few shots.

What I love about this building is its detail and daring.  Standing out amid suburbia. The stained glass windows.  The unusual shapes.  The whiteness.  The spirit of Art Deco if not the classic lines. The building was designed by Sir Owen Williams and opened in 1938. The Jewish congregation weren’t too keen on it and he returned part of his fee. It remained a synagogue until 1993, when it was closed for financial reasons. It was sold to the Torah Temimah Primary School in 1995. I think it’s a splendid piece of architecture, which was well worth the cycle!

Next, I thought I’d head to the Neasden Hindu Temple. But first I had to see a street I’d spotted on the London A-Z. Dog Lane! Great name. But who would want to live there?

It’s a small street, connecting Neasden Lane with the North Circular, London’s inner orbital route (the M25 being the outer). At one end is quite a nice building. Perspective slightly wonky as I was leaning on my bike.  At the other end a car you don’t argue with!

On a short cycle along the North Circular, I passed another temple, the temple of Domestic  Furnishings…

And then I cycled down Brentfield Road to the BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir. Neasden Temple. Opened in 1995. In Neasden! Home of Private Eye’s legendary football manager Ron Knee.  The temple rises above all of that. It is magnificent.  My pictures, in the gloomy June weather, just hint at that.

After the Neasden Temple, it was off to the Temple Of Football, Wembley Stadium, just the other side of the North Circular. Just a few shots here, as I intend to do another, more detailed blog on the stadium, with its amazing arch. I took photos galore. It invites you to do so.

Lots more shots to come in forthcoming blog!

On my way back home from from Wembley, I cycled down the Ealing Road until it connected with the Grand Union Canal. Ealing Road stretches from Wembley to Alperton. People think of Southall as the ultimate Indian community, but Ealing Road must rival it. The jewellery shops, the amazing fruit and veg wholesalers, the restaurants and fashion shops. And now, another temple, opened in 2010, the Shree Sanatan Hindu Mandir, which means, roughly, the all-inclusive temple. The intention seems to be to build bridges with other religions.  A truly laudable intent.

The temple cost £16m to construct and is built in an old fashioned way.  No metal core, apparently. Similar structure to Angkor Wat, in Cambodia. The limestone imported from Gujarat in India.

It’s a kind of scruffy frontage, but closer up, the magnificence is clear,

So, North West London, nondescript as it mostly is, has these four treasures (not including Dog Lane and IKEA!). And no doubt more.  The message: anywhere you look, you’ll find fascination. The wonders of the big city.

Or maybe just the wonders of any human gathering.

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Have You Heard? – (17) “Jonny Greenwood is the Controller”

Posted on June 22, 2012 by John S

Jonny Greenwood is the guitarist and musical guru in Radiohead. This album is a selection of 70s and 80s conscious and dubwise reggae tunes chosen by Jonny.  It’s a brilliant selection. I urge you to download it!

My two favourite tracks are “I’m Still In Love With You” by Marcia Aitken and the wonderfully titled “Flash Gordon meets Luke Skywalker” by Jammy, Scientist and the Roots Radics. Oh, yes!

Marcia Aitken sings a good old-fashioned seventies lovers rock lament over the same rhythm as Althia and Donna’s  “Uptown Top Ranking”. I’m not quite sure which of these came first, but apparently the original sound was from Alton Ellis in 1967. Reggae is brilliant for the recycling of great rhythms. Endless versions are made, all using the same beat.

So here is Marcia’s track.  Love this. Can’t upload tracks from this album from my iTunes for some reason, but YouTube does the business.

Althia and Donna.

Jammy, Scientist and the Roots Radics just hit us with a perfect dub beat on ‘Flash Gordon”- a bit spacey, a bit bonkers.  Brilliant. Unfortunately I can’t find a version to upload, so you’ll have to take it on trust and buy the album.

Jonny Greenwood from Radiohead likes it.  That must be good enough!

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