A Walk around Canvey Island

Last weekend, Kath and I and our friends Jon and Maggie took a train to Benfleet in Essex, on the Thames estuary, and walked over to and round Canvey Island. Why? you may ask – if you have heard of Canvey Island. The answer is the great mid-70s rock’n’roll band, Dr Feelgood, who hailed from Canvey Island and, in my view, paved the way for punk.

Their first album – their classic – is called “Down by the Jetty”, and I’m pretty sure that the photo on the front cover was taken on a windswept Canvey Island. The photo below is of my vinyl copy of the album (taken in the evening, hence the light blurs) which, you will notice, has a Spanish subtitle. I bought it in an Oxford second hand record store in 1977, a year or so after its release. But I knew it off-by-heart by then, having listened to it so much at school when it – and Eddie and the Hot Rods – caused some of us to move away from metal to three minute rock’n’roll roll songs. That left us ready for the Pistols, Damned, Clash, Jam, Buzzcocks and all the rest.

Left to right: buzzsaw guitarist, Wilko Johnson; bassist John B Sparks; The Big Figure on drums; and singer Lee Brilleaux.

IMG_1419_2

Canvey is an island, but only just. There’s a creek that separates it from the mainland, which is pretty narrow in places. In the photo below we are on Canvey, looking across to Leigh-on-Sea, which comes just before Southend, as you travel east. The tide was out for all of our time on the island, so it could be a bit more watery at other times.

IMG_1347

We stopped for a cup of tea here, just as the cafe stopped serving breakfasts on a Sunday. That worked out well later – see the black and white shots.  The Old Git, whoever he is, must surely be a Brexiteer.

IMG_1348

Canvey Island is known for its industrial landscapes when in fact it is mostly rural or suburban. The views you capture tend to be not so much of the island itself but of the scene looking out from it. The big beaches, sea, sky – and those refineries.

IMG_1355

IMG_1356

Canvey Island’s favourite band is celebrated in this mural on the sea wall.

IMG_1359

Holiday caravans and industry exist side-by-side on Canvey Island.

IMG_1378

On the southern coast there is a seaside area which was actually rather attractive and full of people on a sunny day. The black and white effect takes you back for sure…

IMG_1372_2

This was a very good cafe where we had lunch – the Labworth.

IMG_1373_2

The Lobster Shack is the current name for a pub which was previously known as The World’s End and featured in Charles Dickens’ “Great Expectations” as a place for smugglers.

IMG_1390

In the early 70s a new oil refining development was constructed, complete with vast jetty. But it was never opened and the jetty, though built, was never used. It sits there, still, today, a magnificent white elephant.

IMG_1393

We never did locate the jetty that was in the “Down by the Jetty” photo. We think we may have walked under it early on, thinking it would be where all the main industry was.

IMG_1397

The sea birds have made good use of this structure.

IMG_1400

More views away from Canvey. Thames estuary at nearly its widest point, at low tide.

IMG_1407

IMG_1408

IMG_1409

Beyond the Lobster Smack, on the western side of the island, you found yourself on a dyke above the channel separating it from the mainland. This is one of the clearer bits – it was the most difficult part of the walk as it wasn’t cleared and later on there was a lot of undergrowth. The walk overall, turned out to be about 18 miles. Some tired legs at the end!

IMG_1416

We caught a train back to Liverpool Street from Benfleet and had what was one of the most refreshing pints I’ve had for a long time – two in fact. Brooklyn lager of all things. Much needed!

To finish, back to that mural. Me (right) and Jon, in front of the boys.

IMG_1361_2

I’ve been searching all through the city,                                                                                              See you in the morning down by the jetty…

 

 

 

About John S

I'm blogging about the things I love: music, sport, culture, London, with some photos to illustrate aspects of our wonderful city. I’ve written a novel called “The Decision”, a futuristic political thriller, and first of a trilogy. I’m also the author of a book on music since the 1970s called “ I Was There - A Musical Journey” and a volume of poetry about youth, “Growin’ Up - Snapshots/ Fragments”. All available on Amazon and Kindle.
This entry was posted in London, Photos and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

6 Responses to A Walk around Canvey Island

  1. dc says:

    Intriguing place. I like the sound of the Lobster Smack.

  2. Dood says:

    Yep, must be the drug-runners’ local.

    An interesting blog, John, exploring one of the margins of London’s curious industrial/seaside landscapes. I totally understand your wish to go the source of one of your favourite bands, even if no great meaning (and certainly no great beauty) awaits. His Honour Iain Sinclair would be proud of you – and that’s no faint praise.

    • John S says:

      How profound is the meaning in “She Does it Right”?…
      I bow to the brilliance of Iain Sinclair, though he may have taken at least twenty pages to describe a walk round Canvey!

  3. Resa says:

    Interesting post,especially The World’s End!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s